Loden, camelhair, woollen cloth and mohair, winter fabrics are rallied together to reinterpret coats and jackets for a/w 2010/11. Warm, cosy and, even more importantly, ultra light and enveloping, they inject new life and prestige into coats, capes, trenches, blazers and 3 /4 length jackets, practically stealing the scene after several seasons dominated by padded outerwear. And although capes, greatcoats and cloaks are the greatest novelty in the season’s female wardrobe, marking a comeback of the legendary regal garments worn by 50’s divas with their long sweeping backs and inevitable seductive full-length gloves, coats also offer charming alternatives. Represented in classic versions, they return to pick up military inspiration, full length and cinched at the waist by wide leather belts, undeniably feminine, with sumptuous draping to set off the wearer’s step and stiff mannish collars adapted into provocative shawl necks, maybe trimmed with ruches. By day, and also by night, coats are matched with elegant chiffon dresses, for example the Alberta Ferretti collection where similar combinations are further enhanced by a play of weights. Grey, caramel, dark blue and, naturally, black, cut off just above the knee, designers turn their attention to coats, experimenting with lines and cuts. Egg shapes with dropped shoulders, or sacks with bishop sleeves, irresistibly charming, they sport fabric panels invisibly joined together to form authentic dresses. For the evening, even the darkest shades are lit up by a myriad of maxi sequins and minute glass beads. The 3/4 length model hangs on to its primary role, acting as a key element of any urban wardrobe, in particular on rainy days coated with waterproof PVC, including authentic transparent raincoats with rather sophisticated allures, including a Marc Jacobs model finished with a metalled shine and fur detailing. Thanks to its natural charm and streaky appearance, fur naturally holds an important position, used to embellish collars, sleeves, cuffs and shoulders or even transformed into an authentic cloak to wear over a coat or jacket. And for warmer days,, A/W 2010/11 offers cosy mohair coats with maxi tweed, hound’s tooth, Prince of Wales and salt’n’pepper motifs for a more casual look, for example those by eccentric designer Vivienne Westwood. Concluding with proposals for younger generations, a wide selection of wide sleeved blazers with crossover lapels and mid hip pockets, aimed, at long last, to protect the waist from the col. images: more than 800